Saturday, December 11, 2021

台南的贔屭 Bixi Turtles in Tainan

 台南的贔屭

Bixi Stone Turtles in Tainan


有一句諺語說「龍生九子,個個不同」,意指一家兄弟姊妹雖是同一對父母所生,但個性及喜好卻各有不同。
There is a Chinese saying that goes, "The Dragon gave birth to nine sons, all of whom were different." This means that although a family of brothers and sisters may be born to the same parents, they all have very different personalities, strengths, and preferences.

贔屭 (ㄅㄧˋ ㄒㄧˋ ) ( bì xì ),又稱龜趺 (ㄈㄨ)( fū )、霸下、及填下,為龍生的九子之一,而九子都不像龍。到底哪些怪獸該組成龍的九個兒子,眾說紛紜,有不少不同版本,但都說各有各地的喜好,因此會出現在廟宇建築不同位置。神話中的贔屭看起來像龜,有齒 (龜類並沒有),非常喜愛負重,力大到可馱負三山五嶽,所以人們在需要支撐重物的地方就請贔屭出場了。因此贔屭多為石碑、石柱底座及牆頭裝飾,是長壽和吉祥的象徵。傳說贔屭上古時代在江河湖海裡興風作浪,但後來大禹收服了它。贔屭服從了大禹的指揮,推山挖溝,疏通河道,對治水有貢獻。
The Bixi Turtle according to legend is one of the nine sons of the Dragon, but none of those sons looked very much like their parent. There are various views concerning which mythical creatures should be included among the nine sons, but there is a consensus that the sons were nine in number and that they were all unique in their characteristics and strengths. It is because of their various abilities that they appear in different locations on religious architecture. The mythological Bixi looks like a turtle or tortoise, except that it has teeth. The Bixi loves to carry heavy weights, and possesses a strength so great that it can move mountains. This supposed penchant for carrying heavy loads is why people call on the Bixi whenever there is a need to transport or support hefty objects. Thus, bixi usually appear beneath stone stelae and pillar bases, although they can also sometimes be seen as decorations on the top of walls. They are a symbol of longevity and good fortune. Legend has it that at the dawn of history, the Bixi caused huge waves on rivers, lakes and seas, but Yu the Great, eventual founder of the Xia Dynasty, subdued it. The Bixi obeyed Yu’s commands, moved mountains, dug ditches, dredged rivers, and thus made an essential contribution to the taming of the flood waters.


設立贔屭石碑的傳統可追溯到公元3世紀(漢末)之前。幾個世紀以來,中國文化中一直使用贔屭石雕作為紀念石碑和碑銘的裝飾底座, 特別是在後來的皇帝的陵墓中以及為紀念重要事件。贔屭也用於橋樑和拱門的底部。 為了帶來好運而撫摸贔屭長年累月可能導致石雕磨損。 贔屭遍布東亞的日本、韓國、越南、蒙古,甚至俄羅斯遠東地區。
The tradition of setting up bixi stelae can be traced back to before the Third Century AD (the end of Han Dynasty). For centuries, bixi carved from stone have been used in Chinese culture as decorative bases for memorial stelae and inscriptions, especially in the tombs of later emperors and to commemorate important events. Bixi are also used as decorative supports for bridges and arches. The tradition in some areas of rubbing bixi for good luck may over many years cause the stone to wear away, and has thus become an issue of concern to historical conservationists. Bixi are spread all over East Asia, and can be found in Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, and even the Russian Far East.

乾隆51年 (1786年) 時期發生林爽文和天地會之亂,福康安將軍平定叛亂後乾隆皇帝寫下了紀念碑文,十面石碑和十座花崗岩 (俗稱金門麻糬石) 雕刻的贔屭 (含「石全石美」之意) 在乾隆53年 (1788年) 運往台灣。石碑高3.1公尺,寬1.4公尺,其中四座全刻滿文,四座全刻漢文,二座則是漢滿文合刻的對照版。儘管碑文互異,下端的每個
龜身基座卻尺寸一樣。然而,頭部和頸部造型以及龜殼厚度並沒有完全相同。這十隻背負了石碑的巨龜,頭部是標準的龜形,而最正統的「贔屭」則應該是龍頭龜甲。這大概是因清朝去古日遠,對「贔屭」的形制並未完全遵古所致。然而在中國大陸各地,目前所遺留下來贔屭,有龍頭龜甲形狀的仍很常見。
In the 51st year of the Qianlong Emperor (1786), Lin Shuangwen led the Tiandihui Rebellion against the Qing government in Taiwan. After General Fukangan put down the rebellion, Emperor Qianlong wrote a commemorative text to be carved on ten stone stelae supported by ten carved bixi. The number ten was considered illustrative of what was for the Qing Dynasty a perfect outcome to the uprising. The stelae and bases, both carved from granite, were shipped to Taiwan in the 53rd year of Qianlong (1788). The stone stelae are 3.1 meters high and 1.4 meters wide. Four of them are engraved only in the Manchu language, four are engraved solely in Chinese, and two are in both Manchu and Chinese. Although the inscriptions differ, each bixi pedestal is of the same proportions and shape. However, the heads, necks, and shell-thicknesses of the turtles are not all identical. These ten giant bases possess a standard turtle-shaped head, whereas the most orthodox bixi should perhaps have a dragon head and turtle shell. This could be due partly to the fact that since the Qing Dynasty was distant in time from the origin of the Bixi legend, conformation to what purists would consider most appropriate was no longer an issue. Nevertheless, in many parts of Mainland China, it is still very common to find bixi which have turtle shells matched with dragon heads and feet.

不料,這十塊石碑和十隻石龜從福建運抵府城,在台江內海從大船搬上小船時,有一隻石龜底座突然掉入海中,尋之不著,與其面對朝廷的責難,主事官員們選擇冒險用臺灣砂岩,仿製了另一座贔屭,期望能順利瞞天過海。然而,仿製的贔屭石材雕工皆不及原作,若與其他九座贔屭同置一處,勢必相形見絀。於是九座贔屭碑保存於臺南,仿製品送往嘉義。
The ten granite stelae and turtles were transported from Fujian to Fucheng (Tainan), but when they were transferred from the large ship to a smaller vessel in the Taijiang Inland Sea, one of the stone turtle bases suddenly fell into the sea and could not be recovered. Rather than facing the censure of the imperial court, the officials in charge opted to take the risk of having another bixi pedestal made locally from sandstone. However, the imitation was not as good as the original in either workmanship or material, and if placed alongside the other nine, the difference would be too obvious to ignore. Consequently, the nine original granite bixi and their accompanying stelae were preserved in Tainan, while the imitation was sent elsewhere.

所以其中漢滿文合刻的石碑配那座砂石的替代底座,當年有分贈諸羅(嘉義),放於縣城東門附近的福康安生祠內。後來此石碑在1906年梅山大地震後移到今新榮路三商百貨附近,目前擺在嘉義公園裡面,名為福康安紀功碑,故「假贔屭、真石碑」的狀態有保存至今。其餘九隻本來立於今台南南門路附近的福康安生祠,1935年日方移往大南門甕城,1960年後移到赤崁樓安置。
It thus came about that a granite stone stela engraved in both the Chinese and Manchu scripts along with the replacement base of sandstone were donated to Zhuluo (modern Jiayi) and placed in the Fukangan Temple near the east gate of the county capital. Later, after the Meishan Earthquake in 1906, the bixi and stela were moved to the Sanshang Department Store near Xinrong Road. It is currently located in Jiayi Park, and is called the Fukangan Memorial Stela. Therefore, the "fake bixi and genuine stela" have been preserved together to this day. The remaining nine bixi were originally located at the Fukangan Temple near the present Nanmen Road in Tainan. In 1935, the Japanese moved them to the Great South Gate Barbican, and after 1960 they were relocated to Chikan Tower, where they remain until the present day.

乾隆皇帝認為臺灣「民情剽悍,雖經此一番懲創,恐事過即忘」,於是下令在臺灣建立福康安生祠,在生祠前方建四間碑亭安放贔屭碑,其位置在今日南門路郵局一帶。清代以後,這九座贔屭碑,曾三次遷移,其中二次在日治時期,一次在國民政府來臺後。
The Emperor Qianlong believed that the people of Taiwan possessed “fierce sentiments”, and he wrote that “even though they have been punished, they will forget the incident.” Partly for this reason he ordered the establishment of the Fukangan Temple in Tainan, along with the construction of four pavilions to house the stelae and their bixi. This would have been in what is today the area near the post office in Nanmen Road. After the Qing Dynasty collapsed, these nine stelae were relocated three times, two times during the Japanese occupation, and one after the Nationalist government came to Taiwan in 1949.


贔屭碑的第一次遷移是明治44年(1911),當時總督府在臺南廳 (即國立臺灣文學館現址)附近設農園,將贔屭碑所在地包含其中,贔屭碑此次並未離開原址,但在排列上進行了小移動,將清代陳列的方式調整為一字型的。
The first relocation of the bixi and stelae was in 1911. At that time, the Japanese governor set up a farm near Tainan Hall (the current location of the National Museum of Taiwan Literature) which encompassed the region where the stelae were located. They did not leave their original site, but a minor adjustment was made in that their positional arrangement was changed so that they formed a single row.


贔屭碑進行第二次遷移是在昭和5年(1930)。此次遷移起因是總督府為整治大南門一帶,計畫在附近設小公園。因為又時逢「臺灣文化三百年紀念會」,市府將贔屭碑搬遷到大南門甕城內,與公園合併為一個新景點。
The second relocation of the Qianlong Bixi took place in 1930. The reason for this relocation was that the Japanese governor planned to create a small park as part of the renovations of the Great South Gate area. Since this coincided with the "300th Anniversary Celebration of Taiwan Culture," the city government moved the bixi and stelae within the Great South Gate Barbican, merging it with the park to create a new attraction.


臺南市長辛文炳於民國50年(1961)在籌備鄭成功復臺三百週年的慶典活動時,認為因贔屭碑頗具歷史價值,該將九座贔屭與石碑由南門城移到赤崁樓讓民眾觀賞。這就是贔屭碑第三次遷移的原因。
In 1961, the Mayor of Tainan City was preparing the celebrations for the 300th anniversary of the arrival of Zheng Chenggong in Taiwan. He believed that, due to their historical value, the nine turtles and their stelae should be moved from the Great South Gate to Chikan Tower for more people to enjoy. This is the reason why the bixi were moved a third time.


至於那座掉入港中的贔屭呢?據說每當退潮時會浮出水面,吸取日月精華,並獲「白蓮聖母」附身。在西元1911年那隻被漁民下網捕魚時打撈上岸迎回保安宮,置於廟庭院供奉。原該放石碑的凹槽經常被雨水灌滿,傳說此水對醫治惡疾頗有靈效,於是這座贔屭被民眾稱為白蓮聖母。今日這座贔屭在南廠保安宮可以看到。
And what about the turtle base that fell into harbor on its arrival in Taiwan? It is said that it would periodically appear above the surface at low tide and absorb the essence of the sun and moon, eventually becoming possessed by the spirit of the ‘Mother of the White Lotus’. In 1911, this bixi stone base was salvaged by fishermen and welcomed into the Baoan Temple, where it was placed in the courtyard. Since it was exposed to the elements, the stela groove on the back of the turtle filled with water whenever it rained. According to believers, this water is effective for the curing of diseases. Thus, this tenth original Qianlong granite bixi became known as the ‘Mother of the White Lotus’ by the people. Today this turtle can be seen comfortably ensconced in an alcove in Tainan Baoan Temple.


因此,台灣有幾座古時製的贔屭呢? 答案顯然是十一座。十隻是乾隆皇帝命人雕刻後自福建運往台灣的,而最後一座是清代台灣官員為了躲避責罰製作的砂石仿製品。
So, in conclusion, how many ancient bixi stone bases are there in Taiwan today? The answer is evidently eleven. Ten were shipped to Taiwan after being carved in Fujian on the orders of the Qianlong Emperor, and the eleventh is an imitation made from Taiwan sandstone which was commissioned by local officials in order to avoid possible punishment for losing one in the sea on its arrival in Taiwan.





赤崁樓的九隻贔屭由堅硬花崗石製,故至今狀況仍然良好。
The nine bixi and their stelae at Chikan Tower are made of hard granite, and so are still in good condition despite their age.




贔屭與石碑現代仿製品 (赤崁樓) 
A modern imitation of bixi and stela (Chikan Tower)

乾隆贔屭細節說明
Details of the Qianlong Bixi 


碑額: 爲一團龍,口啣刻有篆體 「御製」字額牌。「御製」 與「龍」都是皇帝專屬的圖樣, 顯示此碑的來歷不凡。
The top of the stela shows a coiled dragon with the words "Commissioned by the Emperor" in seal script in its mouth. This design shows the royal origin of the monument, as the Emperor had exclusive rights over the use of this design.



雕飾:兩邊還攀附著8條行龍。團龍怒目瞪視,造形十分威嚴,而行龍大小、姿態各異,同樣具有動感。龍足有5爪,與一般廟3或4爪造形的龍不同。5爪的爲「真龍」,是皇帝專屬的圖樣; 3或4爪的稱爲「蟒」,民間才可以使用。真龍造形的雕刻較爲罕見。
There are a total of 8 dragon carvings at the sides. The center dragon glares majestically, while the other dragons, equally dynamic, are of different sizes and in various postures. The feet have 5 claws, which is different from the general temple dragons which only have 3 or 4 claws. The 5 claws signify the "True Dragon", which deisgn could only be used by the emperor. Those with 3 or 4 claws are called "pythons", and could be used by other people. Sculptures in the shape of the True Dragon are rare.



碑身:高約317公分,寬約142公分。石材來自金門,屬於花崗石特別細膩的「麻糬石」,十分的少見。
Stela: Approx. 317 cm high and 142 cm wide. The stone comes from Jinmen and is a very finely grained but hard variety of granite, the very best available. 


碑文:共刻有5篇詩文,據說是乾隆親筆寫的,叙述福康安勦滅天地會,生擒亂賊林爽文及伙伴的經過。其中四座全刻滿文,四座全刻漢文,二座漢滿文合刻,爲台灣少見的滿、漢文對照的碑文。文字刻得纖細,卻筆劃鮮明,由此可見工匠功力之深與石材之堅硬。
Inscription: There are 5 poems inscribed in total, which are said to be have been composed by Qianlong himself. They describe how General Fukangan suppressed the Tiandihui and captured the rebel Lin Shuangwen and his men alive. Four of the stelae are engraved solely in Manchu, four only in Chinese, and two in both Chinese and Manchu. These two are rare examples of the Manchu and Chinese scripts appearing together in Taiwan. The characters are slender, but the strokes are incisive, which testifies to the skill of the craftsman and the hardness of the stone.



龜座:同樣為花崗石製成。高約80公分,寬約180公分。石龜基座造形渾厚樸實,線條簡潔有力,恰好與石碑龍紋的細膩飛揚成對比。
Turtle Base: Also made of granite. It is approx. 80 cm high and 180 cm wide. The stone turtle base is thick and carved with simple and powerful lines, in contrast to the delicately inscribed dragon patterns on the stela which it supports.




漢文石碑 (赤崁樓) 
Stela inscribed with the Chinese script (Chikan Tower)



滿文石碑 (赤崁樓)
Stela inscribed with the Manchu script (Chikan Tower)



漢滿文對照石碑 (赤崁樓)
Stela with both the Chinese (right) and Manchu (left) scripts (Chikan Tower)



這隻似乎在水泥中沉得很深,以至腳都不見了!(赤崁樓) 
This one appears to be sunk so deep in concrete that its legs have disappeared! (Chikan Tower)



雖然大多數文章表示乾隆贔屭都完全相同,像是一個模子倒出來的,仔細察看就發現顯然並非如此。 此圖顯示其中三隻頭部和頸部都略有不同。(赤崁樓) 
Although most articles assert that the Qianlong Bixi are all absolutely identical to one another, this statement evidently does not stand up to close scrutiny. This photograph shows that the heads and necks of three of them are each subtly different from the other two. (Chikan Tower)



此圖顯示,頸部向上傾斜的角度也可能略有不同。(赤崁樓) 
This picture shows that the upward tilt of the necks can also differ slightly. (Chikan Tower)



在此圖片中,我們可以看出龜殼邊緣的厚度並非完全相同。(赤崁樓) 
In this picture we can see that the thickness of the shells along the edge are not all the same. (Chikan Tower)








嘉義公園內補刻的贔屭因砂岩石材不甚佳,現已腐蝕相當嚴重。上面的是原本的花崗石漢滿文對照石碑。 
The bixi in Jiayi Park is corroded with age due to the poor quality of the local sandstone material. It is supporting the original Qianlong granite stone stela inscribed with both the Chinese and Manchu scripts.



那座掉入港中的贔屭現已稱白蓮聖母,受人供奉為神。甲殼的形狀較扁,像水龜流線型的軟殼。屋頂向天空敞開,凹槽裝有清水時,信徒可以祈求靈水服用,保佑身體健康與平安。相傳有不孕或眼疾的信徒來參拜白蓮聖母後病症會逐漸好轉。雖與擺在赤崁樓的贔屭完全相同,在屋內這隻卻看起來大得多。The bixi that was lost in the sea is now called the Mother of the White Lotus and is enshrined as a god. The shape of the shell is relatively flat in the manner of the streamlined soft shells of aquatic turtles. The roof is open to the sky, and when the stela groove is filled with clear water, believers can pray for this water to protect their health and keep them safe. It is said that believers with infertility or eye problems who come to worship find that their symptoms gradually improve. Although this bixi is identical to the ones at Chikan Tower, this one looks much larger due to the fact that it is placed in a small alcove and visitors can get very close to it.



台南中西區大天后宮的兩座現代贔屭。廟方表示兩座贔屭是廟委會的成員將近20年前從中國大陸運回台獻給天后宮。這兩座目前在廟對面擱置一旁,但有計畫在不久的未來將它們移到天后宮旁巷子內的一個小平台上安置。Two modern bixi at the Grand Mazu Temple in Tainan's West Central District. The Temple authorities explained to me that these two bixi were transported back to Taiwan from mainland China nearly 20 years ago by a member of the Temple Committee to be dedicated to Mazu. They are currently in a somewhat ignominious position in the courtyard, but there are plans to move them to a small platform in the lane next to the Temple in the near future.



(除了瓦斯桶外) 有發現這兩張圖有甚麼差異嗎? 廟方說明石碑本來很高 (左圖攝於約2010年),但為安全起見, 後來被調為較矮,字也有重刻 (右圖攝於2021)。 (Apart from the gas bottles) can you spot the difference between the two pictures? The Temple authorities stated that the stone stelae were originally very tall (the photo on the left was taken around 2010), but for safety reasons they were later made shorter and the inscriptions were changed. (Photo on the right from 2021).




台南中西區大天后宮龍頭贔屭幫我看機車。 The dragon-headed bixi at Grand Mazu Temple looks after my scooter for me!





天后宮旁巷子內的贔屭平台開始成形! 
(攝於2021年12月)
The Bixi Platform in the lane beside The Grand Mazu Temple starts to take shape! (December 2021)




天后宮旁巷子內的贔屭平台完成! 
(攝於2022年1月 - 4月)
The Bixi Platform in the lane beside The Grand Mazu Temple is completed! (January - April 2022)



台南塩埕五王廟外面較小規模的石龜。這隻有陸龜的腳和圓圓的甲殼。 我問當地的人石龜有何代表性, 但並未得到明確的答案。這隻顯然不算是贔屭,也沒有支撐重物。 A stone tortoise outside the Yan Cheng Five Kings Temple in Tainan. The round shell and the feet are obviously those of a tortoise. I asked among some of the local people if anyone knew its significance, but did not get a clear answer. This evidently is not a bixi, and is not supporting any heavy object.





鹿耳門天后宮的現代贔屭。鹿耳門天后宮於民國六十六年 (1977年) 復建,但當年所在地窮鄉僻壤,財力、人力都相當缺乏。為感激全台信眾慷慨解囊,廟與公館在民國九十年 (2001年) 設立了贔屭碑林,碑上刻有捐款者兩萬五千人的芳名。在靠廟牆的贔屭林裡我有數算21隻, 而公館前也有另外三座,總共24隻。 The modern bixi at the Luermen Mazu Temple. This temple underwent reconstruction from 1977, but it was in a poor rural area, and financial and human resources were lacking. To show appreciation for the generosity of all the believers around Taiwan who contributed funds, the temple and affiliated hostel set up a row of bixi stelae in 2001. The stelae are inscribed with the names of 25,000 people who donated to the project. I counted 21 bixi along the wall of the temple, and there were three others in front of the hostel, making a total of 24.





圖中的頭一隻贔屭看起來很新,也雕刻得較為精細。上面的碑文說明這座是在民國108年 (2019年) 增添的。在正旁邊的那隻贔屭頭部偏方形, 碑文顯示設立年分為民國九十年 (2001年)。沿著廟牆排列的都是半身贔屭,公館前的那三座卻都是全身贔屭。 The first bixi in the picture looks very new, and it is also more finely carved. The inscription above shows that this one was added in 2019. The head of the turtle next to it is more squarish, and the accompanying stela inscription shows that the year of establishment was 2001. The bixi along this wall have no hindquarters, whereas those in front of the hostel are complete.




靠廟牆大多數贔屭頭型很圓, 但也有少數較為方形的頭部。 Most of the turtle heads along the temple wall are round, but there are also a few more squarish ones.




公館前院有三隻贔屭,兩座與廟牆的相同,另外一座為龍頭龜甲贔屭。與其他石龜不同,龍頭贔屭有陸龜圓圓的甲殼,圖中也能看到它的龍爪龍尾。底部似乎刻有雲彩, 猶如龍頭贔屭正很威風地駕著天空的雲而來。 In front of the hostel there are three bixi, two of which are the same as those along the temple wall, while the third has a dragon head and turtle shell. Unlike all the other Luermen bixi, the dragon-headed one has a more rounded carapace like a tortoise, along with the claws and tail of a dragon. There seem to be clouds carved along the base, which gives this fearsome bixi the appearance of approaching swiftly on the clouds of heaven.


贔屭模型
Models of Bixi Stone Turtles

赤崁樓賣的贔屭模型






可愛版陶瓷贔屭模型 (文化局與臺南在地品牌 GeckoDesign 守宮設計在2022年10月發行的)





台南市楠西區玄空寺的現代贔屭和贔屭碑林
Modern Bixi Stone Turtles at Xuan Kong Buddhist Temple in Nanxi District, Tainan












永興吊橋前的贔屭
A Bixi Stone Turtle at the entrance to the Yong Xing Suspension Bridge



1 comment:

Comments do not seem to be working. Many people say they have left comments, but I do not receive them. I have not been able to overcome the problem, unfortunately.