台南的贔屭
Bixi Stone Turtles in Tainan
There is a Chinese saying that goes, "The Dragon gave birth to nine sons, all of whom were different." This means that although a family of brothers and sisters may be born to the same parents, they all have very different personalities, strengths, and preferences.
The Bixi Turtle according to legend is one of the nine sons of the Dragon, but none of those sons looked very much like their parent. There are various views concerning which mythical creatures should be included among the nine sons, but there is a consensus that the sons were nine in number and that they were all unique in their characteristics and strengths. It is because of their various abilities that they appear in different locations on religious architecture. The mythological Bixi looks like a turtle or tortoise, except that it has teeth. The Bixi loves to carry heavy weights, and possesses a strength so great that it can move mountains. This supposed penchant for carrying heavy loads is why people call on the Bixi whenever there is a need to transport or support hefty objects. Thus, bixi usually appear beneath stone stelae and pillar bases, although they can also sometimes be seen as decorations on the top of walls. They are a symbol of longevity and good fortune. Legend has it that at the dawn of history, the Bixi caused huge waves on rivers, lakes and seas, but Yu the Great, eventual founder of the Xia Dynasty, subdued it. The Bixi obeyed Yu’s commands, moved mountains, dug ditches, dredged rivers, and thus made an essential contribution to the taming of the flood waters.
設立贔屭石碑的傳統可追溯到公元3世紀(漢末)之前。幾個世紀以來,中國文化中一直使用贔屭石雕作為紀念石碑和碑銘的裝飾底座, 特別是在後來的皇帝的陵墓中以及為紀念重要事件。贔屭也用於橋樑和拱門的底部。 為了帶來好運而撫摸贔屭長年累月可能導致石雕磨損。 贔屭遍布東亞的日本、韓國、越南、蒙古,甚至俄羅斯遠東地區。
The tradition of setting up bixi stelae can be traced back to before the Third Century AD (the end of Han Dynasty). For centuries, bixi carved from stone have been used in Chinese culture as decorative bases for memorial stelae and inscriptions, especially in the tombs of later emperors and to commemorate important events. Bixi are also used as decorative supports for bridges and arches. The tradition in some areas of rubbing bixi for good luck may over many years cause the stone to wear away, and has thus become an issue of concern to historical conservationists. Bixi are spread all over East Asia, and can be found in Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Mongolia, and even the Russian Far East.
乾隆51年 (1786年) 時期發生林爽文和天地會之亂,福康安將軍平定叛亂後乾隆皇帝寫下了紀念碑文,十面石碑和十座花崗岩 (俗稱金門麻糬石) 雕刻的贔屭 (含「石全石美」之意) 在乾隆53年 (1788年) 運往台灣。石碑高3.1公尺,寬1.4公尺,其中四座全刻滿文,四座全刻漢文,二座則是漢滿文合刻的對照版。儘管碑文互異,下端的每個龜身基座卻尺寸一樣。然而,頭部和頸部造型以及龜殼厚度並沒有完全相同。這十隻背負了石碑的巨龜,頭部是標準的龜形,而最正統的「贔屭」則應該是龍頭龜甲。這大概是因清朝去古日遠,對「贔屭」的形制並未完全遵古所致。然而在中國大陸各地,目前所遺留下來贔屭,有龍頭龜甲形狀的仍很常見。
不料,這十塊石碑和十隻石龜從福建運抵府城,在台江內海從大船搬上小船時,有一隻石龜底座突然掉入海中,尋之不著,與其面對朝廷的責難,主事官員們選擇冒險用臺灣砂岩,仿製了另一座贔屭,期望能順利瞞天過海。然而,仿製的贔屭石材雕工皆不及原作,若與其他九座贔屭同置一處,勢必相形見絀。於是九座贔屭碑保存於臺南,仿製品送往嘉義。
The ten granite stelae and turtles were transported from Fujian to Fucheng (Tainan), but when they were transferred from the large ship to a smaller vessel in the Taijiang Inland Sea, one of the stone turtle bases suddenly fell into the sea and could not be recovered. Rather than facing the censure of the imperial court, the officials in charge opted to take the risk of having another bixi pedestal made locally from sandstone. However, the imitation was not as good as the original in either workmanship or material, and if placed alongside the other nine, the difference would be too obvious to ignore. Consequently, the nine original granite bixi and their accompanying stelae were preserved in Tainan, while the imitation was sent elsewhere.
所以其中漢滿文合刻的石碑配那座砂石的替代底座,當年有分贈諸羅(嘉義),放於縣城東門附近的福康安生祠內。後來此石碑在1906年梅山大地震後移到今新榮路三商百貨附近,目前擺在嘉義公園裡面,名為福康安紀功碑,故「假贔屭、真石碑」的狀態有保存至今。其餘九隻本來立於今台南南門路附近的福康安生祠,1935年日方移往大南門甕城,1960年後移到赤崁樓安置。
乾隆皇帝認為臺灣「民情剽悍,雖經此一番懲創,恐事過即忘」,於是下令在臺灣建立福康安生祠,在生祠前方建四間碑亭安放贔屭碑,其位置在今日南門路郵局一帶。清代以後,這九座贔屭碑,曾三次遷移,其中二次在日治時期,一次在國民政府來臺後。
The Emperor Qianlong believed that the people of Taiwan possessed “fierce sentiments”, and he wrote that “even though they have been punished, they will forget the incident.” Partly for this reason he ordered the establishment of the Fukangan Temple in Tainan, along with the construction of four pavilions to house the stelae and their bixi. This would have been in what is today the area near the post office in Nanmen Road. After the Qing Dynasty collapsed, these nine stelae were relocated three times, two times during the Japanese occupation, and one after the Nationalist government came to Taiwan in 1949.
The first relocation of the bixi and stelae was in 1911. At that time, the Japanese governor set up a farm near Tainan Hall (the current location of the National Museum of Taiwan Literature) which encompassed the region where the stelae were located. They did not leave their original site, but a minor adjustment was made in that their positional arrangement was changed so that they formed a single row.
贔屭碑進行第二次遷移是在昭和5年(1930)。此次遷移起因是總督府為整治大南門一帶,計畫在附近設小公園。因為又時逢「臺灣文化三百年紀念會」,市府將贔屭碑搬遷到大南門甕城內,與公園合併為一個新景點。
The second relocation of the Qianlong Bixi took place in 1930. The reason for this relocation was that the Japanese governor planned to create a small park as part of the renovations of the Great South Gate area. Since this coincided with the "300th Anniversary Celebration of Taiwan Culture," the city government moved the bixi and stelae within the Great South Gate Barbican, merging it with the park to create a new attraction.
臺南市長辛文炳於民國50年(1961)在籌備鄭成功復臺三百週年的慶典活動時,認為因贔屭碑頗具歷史價值,該將九座贔屭與石碑由南門城移到赤崁樓讓民眾觀賞。這就是贔屭碑第三次遷移的原因。
In 1961, the Mayor of Tainan City was preparing the celebrations for the 300th anniversary of the arrival of Zheng Chenggong in Taiwan. He believed that, due to their historical value, the nine turtles and their stelae should be moved from the Great South Gate to Chikan Tower for more people to enjoy. This is the reason why the bixi were moved a third time.
至於那座掉入港中的贔屭呢?據說每當退潮時會浮出水面,吸取日月精華,並獲「白蓮聖母」附身。在西元1911年那隻被漁民下網捕魚時打撈上岸迎回保安宮,置於廟庭院供奉。原該放石碑的凹槽經常被雨水灌滿,傳說此水對醫治惡疾頗有靈效,於是這座贔屭被民眾稱為白蓮聖母。今日這座贔屭在南廠保安宮可以看到。
And what about the turtle base that fell into harbor on its arrival in Taiwan? It is said that it would periodically appear above the surface at low tide and absorb the essence of the sun and moon, eventually becoming possessed by the spirit of the ‘Mother of the White Lotus’. In 1911, this bixi stone base was salvaged by fishermen and welcomed into the Baoan Temple, where it was placed in the courtyard. Since it was exposed to the elements, the stela groove on the back of the turtle filled with water whenever it rained. According to believers, this water is effective for the curing of diseases. Thus, this tenth original Qianlong granite bixi became known as the ‘Mother of the White Lotus’ by the people. Today this turtle can be seen comfortably ensconced in an alcove in Tainan Baoan Temple.
赤崁樓的九隻贔屭由堅硬花崗石製,故至今狀況仍然良好。
The nine bixi and their stelae at Chikan Tower are made of hard granite, and so are still in good condition despite their age.
Stela inscribed with the Manchu script (Chikan Tower)
Stela with both the Chinese (right) and Manchu (left) scripts (Chikan Tower)
這隻似乎在水泥中沉得很深,以至腳都不見了!(赤崁樓)
在此圖片中,我們可以看出龜殼邊緣的厚度並非完全相同。(赤崁樓)
嘉義公園內補刻的贔屭因砂岩石材不甚佳,現已腐蝕相當嚴重。上面的是原本的花崗石漢滿文對照石碑。 The bixi in Jiayi Park is corroded with age due to the poor quality of the local sandstone material. It is supporting the original Qianlong granite stone stela inscribed with both the Chinese and Manchu scripts.
台南塩埕五王廟外面較小規模的石龜。這隻有陸龜的腳和圓圓的甲殼。 我問當地的人石龜有何代表性, 但並未得到明確的答案。這隻顯然不算是贔屭,也沒有支撐重物。 A stone tortoise outside the Yan Cheng Five Kings Temple in Tainan. The round shell and the feet are obviously those of a tortoise. I asked among some of the local people if anyone knew its significance, but did not get a clear answer. This evidently is not a bixi, and is not supporting any heavy object.
鹿耳門天后宮的現代贔屭。鹿耳門天后宮於民國六十六年 (1977年) 復建,但當年所在地窮鄉僻壤,財力、人力都相當缺乏。為感激全台信眾慷慨解囊,廟與公館在民國九十年 (2001年) 設立了贔屭碑林,碑上刻有捐款者兩萬五千人的芳名。在靠廟牆的贔屭林裡我有數算21隻, 而公館前也有另外三座,總共24隻。 The modern bixi at the Luermen Mazu Temple. This temple underwent reconstruction from 1977, but it was in a poor rural area, and financial and human resources were lacking. To show appreciation for the generosity of all the believers around Taiwan who contributed funds, the temple and affiliated hostel set up a row of bixi stelae in 2001. The stelae are inscribed with the names of 25,000 people who donated to the project. I counted 21 bixi along the wall of the temple, and there were three others in front of the hostel, making a total of 24.
靠廟牆大多數贔屭頭型很圓, 但也有少數較為方形的頭部。 Most of the turtle heads along the temple wall are round, but there are also a few more squarish ones.
公館前院有三隻贔屭,兩座與廟牆的相同,另外一座為龍頭龜甲贔屭。與其他石龜不同,龍頭贔屭有陸龜圓圓的甲殼,圖中也能看到它的龍爪龍尾。底部似乎刻有雲彩, 猶如龍頭贔屭正很威風地駕著天空的雲而來。 In front of the hostel there are three bixi, two of which are the same as those along the temple wall, while the third has a dragon head and turtle shell. Unlike all the other Luermen bixi, the dragon-headed one has a more rounded carapace like a tortoise, along with the claws and tail of a dragon. There seem to be clouds carved along the base, which gives this fearsome bixi the appearance of approaching swiftly on the clouds of heaven.
Interesting Blogpost, thank you for sharing!
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